So having used HLT to great success about a month ago at VIR, load track, press start driving, hit track for a session and HLT records from crossing the start to the end of session.
Then I tried to use it at the Pagoda hillclimb last weekend. Since this track didn't exist I pressed new track, followed directions to go to the start line and press button then go to finish line and press button. So when I went for a live run I hit start driving (HLT tells me it will start recording when I pass start line), mounted the Iphone, finished suiting up, and proceeded to make a run. Check after run and no laps were recorded. OK next run I hit start driving (once again HLT assures me it will start recording when I pass start line) mount phone, finish suiting up, and make run. This time I glance at phone while in line to run figuring maybe I hit a wrong button last time but HLT is counting down how many feet left to start line so I concentrate on run. Once again no laps recorded. WHat am I doing wrong here? It worked fine at VIR.
In an unrelated question there were several people there using HLT but none of us could figure out how to send the track to the others once we had defined start finish lines, we ended up all having to set them separately.
What am I doing wrong!
Re: What am I doing wrong!
[Moved to Tracks]
Hi,
LapTimer provides 2 assistants for track setup: Autocross and New Track. Autocross (most probably the one you used) generates a track with distinct start and finish positions. The start position is defined as a "standing go", i.e. one that is not passed driving, but one you need to position and stage your car on. Once you are staged (and this requires you to stand still and press the Staged button), any acceleration will start timing. New Track defines a new track for typical round courses, i.e. with a common start and finish line. The trigger defined is a stop / go trigger that is fired when the position is passed driving.
Maybe both are not what you need for your hill climb. In case you do not want the standing go trigger (staged etc.), just define the AX track as designed. Once this is done, enter Lap List, selct the 2 POIs+Triggers defines row just below your new track, and change the standing go trigger to a regular go trigger. This will not require the staging but expects you to pass it (at higher speed).
For more information on the trigger types, please check http://www.gps-laptimer.com/LapTimerDoc ... iggers.pdf
To exchange a track set, just go back to the 2 POIs+Triggers row in Lap List, scroll to the bottom, and press "Certify". Instead of sending the generated mail to myself, send it to your fellow peers. They can import it to their LapTimer by long pressing the track set attachment in Mail.
- Harry
Hi,
LapTimer provides 2 assistants for track setup: Autocross and New Track. Autocross (most probably the one you used) generates a track with distinct start and finish positions. The start position is defined as a "standing go", i.e. one that is not passed driving, but one you need to position and stage your car on. Once you are staged (and this requires you to stand still and press the Staged button), any acceleration will start timing. New Track defines a new track for typical round courses, i.e. with a common start and finish line. The trigger defined is a stop / go trigger that is fired when the position is passed driving.
Maybe both are not what you need for your hill climb. In case you do not want the standing go trigger (staged etc.), just define the AX track as designed. Once this is done, enter Lap List, selct the 2 POIs+Triggers defines row just below your new track, and change the standing go trigger to a regular go trigger. This will not require the staging but expects you to pass it (at higher speed).
For more information on the trigger types, please check http://www.gps-laptimer.com/LapTimerDoc ... iggers.pdf
To exchange a track set, just go back to the 2 POIs+Triggers row in Lap List, scroll to the bottom, and press "Certify". Instead of sending the generated mail to myself, send it to your fellow peers. They can import it to their LapTimer by long pressing the track set attachment in Mail.
- Harry
Re: What am I doing wrong!
Thanks Harry
I was mislead by the popup that says "video will start when you cross start line" If I would have looked over again I may have seen the staged button as the triggers were set to standing go.
So the question is if I set the triggers for regular go how fast does the software expect me to pass it? Usually the start gate is about 15-20 ft from the stage line so I'm not really flying at that point, the problem is I can't reach the phone to press a staged button once I'm fully harnessed with arm restraints etc so the only option is a go trigger.
I was mislead by the popup that says "video will start when you cross start line" If I would have looked over again I may have seen the staged button as the triggers were set to standing go.
So the question is if I set the triggers for regular go how fast does the software expect me to pass it? Usually the start gate is about 15-20 ft from the stage line so I'm not really flying at that point, the problem is I can't reach the phone to press a staged button once I'm fully harnessed with arm restraints etc so the only option is a go trigger.
Re: What am I doing wrong!
Speed needs to be more than 4.5 km/h (2.8 mph) for triggers to fire. The issue with a starting line that near is that the GPS position may hop forth and back due to inaccuracies and trigger a lap accidentally. In case you want to compare your times to own times only (i.e. not to 'official times' or other driver's times), you may consider moving the start trigger forward an arbitrary distance.
- Harry
- Harry
Re: What am I doing wrong!
OK so if I'm using the dual GPS I should move the start line forward 10ft? farther?Harry wrote:Speed needs to be more than 4.5 km/h (2.8 mph) for triggers to fire. The issue with a starting line that near is that the GPS position may hop forth and back due to inaccuracies and trigger a lap accidentally. In case you want to compare your times to own times only (i.e. not to 'official times' or other driver's times), you may consider moving the start trigger forward an arbitrary distance.
- Harry
Re: What am I doing wrong!
Thanks
-
gplracerx
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Re: What am I doing wrong!
You should check the position of start and stop after defining them using the wizard. Stand on the starting line, go to the GPS page and wait until the reading is stable. Given the vagaries of iOS location services, that could take a minute or two. Then compare the latitude and longitude of the start POI for the track in the lap list page with the GPS data. Edit if necessary. You can also adjust the width of the detection zone in Settings. For a hillclimb where Start and Finish should relatively far apart, you could probably use the widest setting. Even better is to test the locations by walking the course. If they allow you to drive your street car on the course before the event, that would be the ideal time to test. Another thing to do is look at the start and finish points on the map display. Satellite view is probably best. I'm pretty sure the center of the flag is the location of the POI.
At autocrosses, I only use standing go if the starting line is really close to the staging line. Since everything is close together, I use a narrow detection corridor and I can normally put a moving go starting point at the actual starting line. There's also a setting that allows slow speed detection of POI's that is useful when walking the course.
At autocrosses, I only use standing go if the starting line is really close to the staging line. Since everything is close together, I use a narrow detection corridor and I can normally put a moving go starting point at the actual starting line. There's also a setting that allows slow speed detection of POI's that is useful when walking the course.